We visited this wine tavern in a northern neighborhood of Stuttgart, Bad Canstatt. This is a sleepy part of town, with its own marketplace, cobblestone streets and old, warped, timber-framed houses. The building dates from 1463 and used to be a beguine-house. These were sisterhoods of women who lived like nuns without vows, the reason usually being a shortage of marryable men; at the same time as not wanting to be a real nun for fear of not being able to step out if you wished so. Nowadays the building is being used by an architectural office and the wine tavern.
The weather was nice, so we could sit in the lovely courtyard and listen to the conversations of the elderly groups around us. Wine seems to be an “over-60-affair” around here. At least this kind of wine:
a “viertele” riesling, (quarter liter)
In wine bars and taverns around here, you are often asked if you want your wine in a proper stemmed glass or the original Swabian-way, meaning a quarter liter glass with a handle instead of a stem. The riesling was from a local and rather well known producer, Wöhrwag, but you just can’t smell anything in such a glass. Especially if it is, as is often elsewhere, filled to the rim. The picture above is not representative of the usual “viertele” level! We later drank this same wine from proper glasses and liked it a lot.
As a starter we shared this platter with homemade aspic, local “backsteinkäs” (a stinky and soft-ish cheese) and local “schwarz-wurst”. The dressing was lightly sour, which accompanied the delicious aspic (a lot of meat, little gelatinous substance) and cheese very well. The traditional side called “music”? It is the onion rings! I don’t have to explain this, do I?
This was our maincourse: lovely, tender ox meat boiled in bouillion, with sauteed potatoes, cranberries, horseradish and salad. Do you see the amount of meat on that plate? And yummy it was as well.
We liked Klösterle. The food is traditional, local fare and a great value, almost all maincourses are under 10 Euros. The wines are good, but next time we are going to ask for normal glasses so that we can appreciate them.
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